IS IT ME
Published in Lancaster Farming 11/24/08
Here I sit with a full cup of coffee in my belly, two fingers on the keyboard and a desire to tell the world they are not getting it. This comes on the heels of another grand annual conference, at the usual hotel chain, eating the same old food “not” from our local region. It wasn’t like there weren’t any important people from agriculture there to impress. What with our Commissioner of Agriculture, the NY Farm Bureau President, the NY NRCS State Conservationist, Legislators, Conservation District managers and many guests in attendance. The table I inhabited probably got more than they bargained for when I sat down. I felt a little Andy Rooney like, posing questions that might stimulate conversations and feelings about their farmers striving to feed our state.
As the first plates arrived from the “Sysco” oriented kitchen, my enthusiasm turned quickly to questions. Is it me or shouldn’t we have NY beef on our plates? Can you tell me why there is no milk on any of these tables? Did these veggies come from a Pride of NY Farm? I wonder what’s for dessert since we are in orchard heaven? And might it be warm apple crisp topped with vanilla ice-cream? Sadly, no such luck on the local food front, not even an in-season apple dish. Is it me or have we lost our connection with the farmers and the land to which we serve when we don’t eat the food from our own state. Tell me how to excite the consumer, when you’re not willing to do it yourself. You can only imagine the discussion around the table during and after dinner. All agreed that we need to pursue this regional eating experience with a heightened sense of vigor and passion.
This topic of serving local or New York State products at social gatherings, state sponsored events, CCE meetings, county fairs, colleges, schools and conference centers is one that is dear to my heart. My passion for this has been tested several times, mostly with the same result, lip service. Just last year at Ithaca College, I participated in a national conservation director’s meeting. As the man from the college touted recycling potato based utensils and their composting facilities, the representative from Wisconsin took an apple from the bowl. The sticker revealed it was from Washington. My favorite all-time sound bite “This apple tastes like diesel fuel” sternly came out of the Midwesterner’s mouth as you could hear a pin drop. Presentation over!
I had a lengthy and lively discussion with my county’s extension director about food served at the annual meeting in which the “commish” was a guest speaker. He approached me about the same time I stabbed a sausage and asked if this came from Sweet Grass Farm. No. I speared a meatball and shook it. Is this beef from Mr. Brewer’s farm? Nope. I empathically said, “ I’m not feeling any love tonight.” The rest of the evening was a bust for me, in fact I was so upset I went home and made up a mock menu of what I would have served and e-mailed it to him. It started with greens and three-bean salad, mashed potatoes, butternut squash coupled with turkey pot pie and chuck wagon chili. For dessert, an apple berry cobbler served with ice-cream or sharp cheese. The cost, probably the same as the banquet food but you would have to compensate the farmer’s wives for preparation. Who cares, it’s made locally with love, that’s the story!
I can assure you, these happenings are not isolated incidents. But who wants to be ridiculed or accused of being an armchair quarterback for bringing up the subject. I have been able to answer the critics by action. I am fortunate to know many local farm families and passionate food purveyors that know equally as many farmers. Together as a team of one, we make things happen and scoff at the naysayers and the whispers that say local is too expensive for conference budgets. This is BULL!!
I attended a NYS Food Policy meeting in Albany and ate a delicious NY lunch. Mr. Hooker wanted it to be served and so it was done. I was informed it actually cost less than eating downstairs at the café. Our grazing posse that has put on 4 sold-out conferences has had the privilege of working with local farmers as well as chefs from the national chain hotel venues. It takes some relationship building to get everyone on board, but it is an awesome sight indeed to see chefs excited again and enjoying the compliments from participants. Our evaluations of over 1000 guests have clearly showed that “eating the talk” is the most popular part of a program, especially when the farmers that produced the products were in attendance to share their stories.
Is it me, or is this an important issue going into meeting season? The reason for my discontent is I want everyone to think about the possibilities if folks got on board in a big way. Start a local procurement business serving the needs of event centers. Bring in customers to the area because serving local food is an asset to the conference. Provide economic stimulus to your farming community and grow some new farmers. Planners need to know this CAN be done and not settle for some faceless food from 2000 miles away. Since New York already imports 75% of its food and I hear that West Virginia is over 90% we had better start practicing what we preach if we want to keep our local agriculture viable. Raise your fork if you agree.